Punching the Clock: Winging it

In my opinion, the perfect chicken wing is extra, extra crispy on the outside, but still moist and tender on the inside. I like them best when they are slathered in sweet and savory barbecue or, when I’m in the right mood, hot sauce of a more traditional variety with just enough heat to tingle my tastebuds. But not enough so that sweat starts to bead on my brow.
I can do without the blue cheese, but I never pass up a couple of pieces of celery. (Cleansing the palate is a must.) And I definitely require someplace for the “carnage,” and a whole heck of a lot of napkins. Because, trust me, it isn’t going to be pretty. Oh, I try to be girlie and dainty about it, but it never seems to work out the way I plan.
I’ve sampled this deep-fried delicacy at many an establishment over the years, but never have I encountered a wing so absolutely perfect in their very wingness as those served up at The Stadium Sports Bar and Grill in Oxford. Their honey barbecue wings? To die for.
It was my deep seated attachment to these delicious wings that lead me to approach Dave Shull, part-owner and general manager of said establishment to let me “do” a Punching the Clock with him. While I wish I could say my motives were pure and altruistic, and derived from a desire help spread about this local business’ offerings, in reality, I just wanted to know how on earth he makes those wonderful wings. Not that I cared about trying to replicate them; I just wanted to know.
Not one to pass up on an offer of free labor, Dave was all for me tagging along in the kitchen with him. The only problem (besides the fact that he wanted me to help make the food) was that he wanted me to come in during one of their busiest times. Not wanting to get in the way, or cause any customer dissatisfaction I lobbied to come in at a slower time.
We compromised. And early on a Friday evening, before the dinner rush, I put on some non-slip shoes, tied my hair back, took a few calming breaths and went to “work” at The Stadium.
Now, the Stadium hasn’t always had a kitchen. When they first opened some five or six years ago, they had an arrangement with Roma’s across the street. That allowed the sports bar’s customers to order directly from the pizzeria and have it delivered without having to leave the comfort of their bar stool. But according to Dave, adding their own food offerings was always part of the plan.
In December, after months of designing and installing the necessary equipment, The Stadium tacked on “grill” to their name and debuted their new menu, which Dave describes as classic American bar food.
The wings, of course, play a prominent role on that menu, coming as they do in a number of different varieties. For those who are less carnivorous in their tendencies and prefer not to gnaw on bones during a meal, there is even a boneless option, known as Stadium Tenders.
Fixated as I’ve always been on the wings, I’d never taken the time to really peruse the whole menu. It turns out, I was missing out. In addition to those wings, the Stadium also serves up a host of different burgers, wraps, sandwiches and even a few salads. All of it is made to order, something I learned the hard way back in the kitchen.
Now, don’t get me wrong. I like to cook. But, the idea of cooking in a busy restaurant kitchen is not something that has ever appealed to me. I’ve been in plenty of them over the years, as a waitress and the like, and always found those big flame-spitting grills somewhat intimidating.
In the Stadium’s kitchen, however, I felt instantly at home. While small, the space is incredibly well organized. Everything you need to make any of the menu items (and there are quite a few) is within easy reach. Despite the heat and humidity outside, it wasn’t nearly as hot as I expected it to be. And, most importantly, it was fastidiously clean.
I barely had time to gain my bearings in the kitchen before the first order came in. I scrambled to scrub my hands and throw on gloves, while Dave meted out orders to the rest of the kitchen staff, which was comprised of Oxford brothers Nick and Dylan Cole.
The order consisted of loaded fries, wings, onion rings and a French dip. Under Dave’s watchful eye, I set up each plate while the boys took care of the fryer.
I scooped cole slaw, ladled out dressings, chopped up bacon for the fries and got the au jus and roast beef bubbling on the stove. The roll got sliced (by Dave, I’ve never been good with a bread knife) and toasted under the broiler before being spread with garlic aoli (which is a fancy name for mayo, in case you didn’t know) and topped off with the roast beef. After determining that it was best not to let me handle hot liquids, Dave added the side of au jus, and as quickly as it had all started, we were done. There were a few more steps in the middle, but you get the idea.
As soon as that order was delivered by Danielle and Reebe, who were working the bar, there was another in its place. And then another, and another. We handled each the same, with Dave talking me through or, when I got stuck, demonstrating each step. I think we worked through most of the wraps and sandwiches on the menu, plus a few sandwiches. All while Nick and Dylan worked their grilling and frying magic. It was actually kind of fun.
Not only did it give me a new appreciation for what it takes to cook in that environment, but it also made me hungry. I thought that once I made all those menu items, I’d have no interest in eating them. Boy, was I wrong. It just made me want to try everything.
During a bit of a lull, Dave let me try my hand at the wing station. As I struggled to perfect my toss, he filled me in on what he considers to be the secret to the Stadium’s fabulous wings. Unfortunately, he swore me to secrecy, so as much as I would like to share, I can’t. You’ll just have to go in and try them for yourself.
The Stadium Bar and Grill is located at the intersection of Main Street and Canal Street (Route 12) in the Village of Oxford. The kitchen is open and serving food whenever they are open, which is from 11:30 a.m. to 1 a.m. Monday through Thursday, 11:30 a.m. to 3 a.m. Friday and Saturday, and from noon to 1 a.m. on Sunday.

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